Oldupai Gorge and surounding area, Tanzania

February, 2014

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We left Mysigio Camp and headed for the Ndutu region of Serengeti National Park. We descended from the highlands and then began another long slow ascent, and came upon some giraffes that towered over the surrounding trees.

Giraffe near Mysigio Camp


Oldupai Photo by Dona	Oldupai Photo by Dona

We also encountered more weavers, which never seemed to fail to delight us.

Flower Xxx Yellow
Photo by Dona


Photo by Dona	Photo by Dona	Photo by Dona
Vitelline Masked Weaver


Vitelline Masked Weaver	Xxx Vitelline Masked Weaver F

Oldupai gorge was somewhat of an oasis in a stark land. It was full of birds and lizards; whether because of the gorge, or the tourist facilities and attendant extra food it's not clear. I expect a little of both. Or maybe just because we were stopped and walking around and had time to see things.

As explained by the park service orientation guide, Oldupai gorge is usually referred to as "Olduvai" gorge in the literature, a result of European mis-understandings of local pronounciations. "Oldupai" is a Maasai word for a sisal plant growing in the area.

The remains of some of our earliest known ancestors have been found at archeological sites in the gorge. It has been and continues to be an important scientific site for piecing together our evolutionary history. The site was occupied by Homo habilis 1.9 million years ago; Homo erectus 1.2 million years ago; and Homo sapiens 17,000 years ago. Stone tools found at the gorge sites have helped piece together the developmental history of humankind.


Red Billed Fire Finch Photo by Dona	Variable Sunbird Photo by Dona	Purple Grenadier Photo by Dona


Black Faced Waxbill Photo by Dona	Black Faced Waxbill


(female) Photo by Dona

Red Headed Rock Agama

White Bellied Canary

From Oldupai we headed into a huge landscape on the fringes of the Serengeti plains. Dust devils rose in the distance, and we left trees behind.

Plains around Oldupai Gorge
Photo by Dona

We came to a place called "Shifting Sands," a small crescent-shaped sand dune which is steadily marching across the plain to the west. There are concrete markers in the dirt track leading up to the dune indicating its position in previous decades. Apparently the sand is slightly magnetic, and originally came from the volcano which was Ngorongoro. The magnetism is what keeps the dune a dune, rather than slowly being dispersed by the relatively steady wind. Douglas told us the shifting sands are a sacred site for the Maasai; but in what way I don't know.

Shifting Sands
Photo by Dona

We found a dung beetle busily working away, hauling its precious cargo off to where-ever it was going.

Dung Beetle

We continued across the vast plains, watching the occasional dust cloud stirred up by the wind. It was mostly overcast, and as the day progressed the clouds darkened. Finally, a few rain drops hit the windshield. Douglas wasted no time changing direction, heading for the nearest road. He did not want to get caught out here in or after a good rain. The rain didn't amount to squat, but you don't know that until it's over.

Thompsons Gazelle with fawn


Oldupai to Ndutu

Oldupai to Ndutu

As we entered the Ndutu region of Serengeti National Park, the landscape became less stark. The grass was greener, and we began to see more trees and wildlife.


Vultures Photo by Dona	Rueppell's Griffon Vulture	Lappet Faced Vulture

Black Headed Heron
Photo by Dona

Flower Xxx Pink White
Photo by Dona

We found a nice Leopard Tortise which we stopped to check out.


Leopard Tortise Gary Douglas	Leopard Tortise


Wildebeest Calf	Vultures finishing off a Wildebeest Carcass

Birds at an isolated Pond

Towards afternoon we arrived at our camp for the next few days, Flycatcher Lagarja Camp. We would be spending the next few days exploring the Ndutu area.