Birding in Southern Ecuador

Umbrellabird Lodge

late February and Early March, 2015

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It was a long, windy, bumpy, but interesting drive from Guayquil to the Umbrellabird Lodge on the lower slopes of the Andes in southwestern Ecuador. As we drove along Ram or Dawn would point out birds they were familiar with and recognized, and we even recognized some of them as well.

The lower slopes of the Andes are tropical and subtropical rainforest; it was hot, humid, and rainy. Umbrellabird Lodge is at around 500m in the Buenaventura Reserve, which is owned by the Jocotoco Foundation.

Our accomodations were great; a nice airy bungalow with hot shower and a porch where we might catch some birds. We didn't have a long view; but we hoped there would be birds popping around.

Umbrellabird Cabin
Our Umbrellabird Bungalow

Umbrella Bird Lodge Forest Mist
Forest Mist

They were working on an additional bungalow along the road between our place and the main dining hall, so we checked it out each day. I was surprised to see a young woman working alongside the men; something you don't often see in Central and South America.

Umbrellabird Construction
Construction of a new Bungalow

As expected, we had loads of hummingbirds buzzing around all the time.

White Necked Jacobin White Necked Jacobin White Necked Jacobin White Necked Jacobin
Photo by Dona
White Necked Jacobin
Brown Violetear Brown Violetear Brown Violetear Brown Violetear
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Brown Violetear
Brown Violetear Brown Violetear
Brown Violetear
Green Crowned Brilliant Green Crowned Brilliant Green Crowned Brilliant Green Crowned Brilliant F
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Green Crowned Brilliant Green Crowned Brilliant F
Green Crowned Brilliant Green Crowned Brilliant
Green Crowned Brilliant
Green Thorntail
Green Thorntail
Xxx F Xxx Hummingbird
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Xxx F Xxx Hummingbird
Xxx Hummingbird Xxx Hummingbird Xxx Hummingbird
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Xxx Hummingbird Xxx Hummingbird Xxx Hummingbird

Bananaquit Bananaquit
Photo by Dona
Bananaquit
Southern Yellow Grosbeak Xxx
Photo by Dona
Southern Yellow Grosbeak Xxx

Masked Tityra Rufous Headed Chachalaca
Masked Tityra Rufous Headed Chachalaca

The Green Honeycreeper was one of my favorites. It's a green color so intense it doesn't seem like it can be real.

Green Honeycreeper Green Honeycreeper Green Honeycreeper
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Green Honeycreeper
Green Honeycreeper F
Green Honeycreeper F

The tanagers are always some of my favorites because they are so colorful. Some of the Ecuadorian ones are pretty outrageous.

Blue Gray Tanager Blue Grey Tanager Blue Gray Tanager
Photo by Dona
Blue Gray Tanager
Blue Necked Tanager
Photo by Dona
Blue Necked Tanager
Lemon Rumped Tanager Lemon Rumped Tanager Lemon Rumped Tanager
Photo by Dona
Lemon Rumped Tanager

Northern Violaceous Trogon Northern Violaceous Trogon Xxx Northern Violaceous Trogon F
Photo by Dona
Northern Violaceous Trogon Xxx Northern Violaceous Trogon F
Swallowtail Kite
Photo by Dona
Swallowtail Kite

Xxx Xxx
Photo by Dona
Raptor Xxx

Then there was the lodge's namesake, the Long-Wattled Umbrellabird. How that bird even gets around without tripping on its wattle and falling to the forest floor is beyond me. I can't imagine hauling that thing around, but apparently the ladies think it's pretty special.

Umbrellabird Umbrellabird Umbrellabird
Long-Wattled Umbrellabird
Photo by Dona

Umbrellabird Ram Umbrellabird Sign
Ram

We would have walked right past this Pauraque if it hadn't been pointed out to us. Even when it was, we had a heck of a time finding it. Once you knew it was there it was easy, but otherwise ... what a camouflage job!

Pauraque Pauraque
Pauraque
Saffron Finch
Saffron Finch
Xxx Olive Striped Flycatcher Xxx Olive Striped Flycatcher
Xxx Olive Striped Flycatcher
Olive Backed Woodcreeper Olivaceous Woodcreeper Buff Throated Creeper
Olive Backed Woodcreeper Olivaceous Woodcreeper Buff Throated Creeper

Pale Mandibled Aracari Pale Mandibled Aracari
Pale Mandibled Aracari

One of the nice things about Umbrellabird Lodge is their big open porch / dining area. We had delightful breakfasts, lunches and dinners there. There were always loads of birds hanging around. One evening, a Black and White Owl flew right through and almost landed on my hat. There must have been a big moth or something right above me, because we observed the owl flying off to catch things in the night and then returning to his perch.

Umbrella Bird Lodge Ram Dawn Dona Matching
Umbrella Bird Lodge Ram Dawn Dona Matching

The flowers were about as outrageous as the birds.

Hibiscus Hibiscus
Hibiscus
Photos by Dona
Heliconia
Heliconia
Orchid Xxx White Pink White Violet Orchid Orchid Xxx White
Orchid Xxx White Pink
Photo by Dona
Orchid, Xxx White Violet Orchid Xxx White
Photo by Dona
Flower Xxx Pink Flower Xxx Pink
Flower Xxx Pink
Photo by Dona
Flower Xxx Pink
Photo by Dona
Flower Xxx Orange Flower Xxx Red Flower Xxx Red
Flower Xxx Orange
Photo by Dona
Flower Xxx Red
Photos by Dona
Flower Xxx Red Flower Xxx Red Flower Xxx Red
Flower Xxx Red
Photos by Dona

Flower Xxx Lavender Flower Xxx Lavender
Flower Xxx Lavender
Photo by Dona
Flower Xxx Lavender
Photo by Dona

Some of the flowers were really weird. At first I didn't even think they were flowers.

Flower Zingiber spectabile Flower Zingiber spectabile
Zingiber spectabile
Photos by Dona

Leaf Red
Leaf Red
Photo by Dona

I was really hoping to see a bunch of cool frogs, but we only found one.

Frog Umbrellabird Frog Xxx
Photo by Dona
Frog

Howler Monkey Umbrellabird Howler Monkey Umbrellabird Howler Monkey
Howler Monkey

The butterflies were great, but as usual didn't want to hold still with their wings open for photographs. One of the cool things is how different some of them on the top and bottom sides of their wings.

Cydno Longwing Heliconius Cydno Butterfly Xxx Black White Red Cydno Longwing Heliconius Cydno
Photo by Dona Photo by Dona
Cydno Longwing (Heliconius Cydno)
Butterfly Xxx Blue Brown Eyeballs
Butterfly Xxx Blue Brown Eyeballs
Moth Xxx Red Orange Moth Xxx Red Orange Moth
Moth Xxx Red Orange Moths

The locusts made a heck of a racket in the evening, but they were really difficult to locate. They were right there, but when you looked there they weren't.

Locust Umbrellabird Locust Umbrellabird Locust Green
Locusts Green Locust

Agouti
Agouti
Photo by Dona

We were a little disappointed with our stay at Umbrellabird. There was a place up one of the roads where they were in the process of building an observation deck or some sort, and it was a place where some cool birds were frequently seen. The staff didn't tell us this, and we walked by it numerous times without stopping because of the construction going on. If we had known, we would have lingered to see what might show up.

We also had a bit of a screw-up in communications. We didn't have our own vehicle, and our hosts asked us if we wanted to try to see the El Oro Parakeets. We asked how far it was, and they said a half-hour drive -- but we didn't have a car. We asked how far to walk, and it was too far. We told them we didn't have a car and declined, but realized later they would have arranged for a ride for us. There were a number of things we didn't get a chance to look for as a result; next time we would do much better; it was a lesson we learned for the places we visited subsequently.

Then we moved up the Andes a bit, to the Urraca area.